Shaving With Acne: How to Avoid Irritation and Razor Bumps

Shaving and acne are an uncomfortable combination. A razor can catch on spots, cause nicks and spread irritation, and some people develop bumps after shaving that look like acne but are actually something different. With the right preparation and technique, you can shave without making your skin worse.

Acne vs razor bumps

It helps to know what you are dealing with:

Acne: blackheads, whiteheads and red pimples caused by clogged pores. They appear on shaved and unshaved areas alike.
Razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae): small, red, sometimes painful bumps that form when shaved hairs curl back and grow into the skin. They are especially common in people with curly or coarse hair and appear only where you shave.
Folliculitis: inflammation of hair follicles, often from friction or bacteria, which can look like small pustules around hairs.

Many people have more than one of these at the same time. If you are unsure, our guide to types of acne can help you compare.

Before you shave

Soften the hair: shave after a warm shower, or hold a warm, damp cloth on the skin for a minute or two.
Cleanse gently: use a mild, non-comedogenic cleanser to remove oil and dead skin.
Use a lubricating shaving product: choose a fragrance-free shaving gel or cream for sensitive skin. Avoid shaving with just water or soap.

How to shave acne-prone skin

Use a sharp blade: dull blades tug and need more passes. Replace blades or disposable razors regularly.
Shave in the direction of hair growth: this is gentler and reduces ingrown hairs, even if the result is slightly less close.
Use light strokes: do not press hard, and avoid going over the same area repeatedly.
Go around active spots: do not try to shave the top off a pimple.
Rinse the blade often to keep it clean as you go.
Rinse your skin with cool water and pat dry with a clean towel.

After shaving

Apply a gentle, fragrance-free moisturiser or aftershave balm. Avoid alcohol-based aftershaves, which can sting and dry the skin.
If you use acne treatments such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, consider applying them at night rather than straight after a morning shave, to reduce stinging.
Clean your razor and let it dry fully between uses. Do not share razors.

Electric razors and trimmers

Some people with acne or razor bumps find an electric razor or a beard trimmer gentler than a blade, because it does not cut as close to the skin. Keeping a short stubble rather than a very close shave can greatly reduce razor bumps for people prone to them.

Treating razor bumps and irritation

Give the skin a break from shaving for a few days if bumps are inflamed.
Use a gentle exfoliant such as salicylic or glycolic acid a few times a week to help free trapped hairs. Read our article on salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide.
Do not dig out ingrown hairs with tweezers or needles, which can cause infection and dark marks.
Consider long-term options such as laser hair reduction if razor bumps are persistent, after discussing with a professional.

Shaving other areas

The same principles apply to shaving the neck, legs, underarms and bikini area: soften the hair, use a sharp clean blade and a lubricating gel, shave with the grain and moisturise afterwards.

When to see a doctor

See a doctor if bumps are painful, spreading, filled with pus, leaving dark marks or scars, or if you are not sure whether it is acne, razor bumps or an infection. Prescription treatments are available for all three.

The bottom line

You can shave with acne by preparing the skin, using a sharp blade with a good gel, shaving with the grain and avoiding active spots. If bumps appear only where you shave, they may be razor bumps, which respond best to gentler shaving and exfoliation.